L'Impero

Walking to L'Impero on a winter night has to be one of the most romantic experiences in NYC. You look up at the black-branched trees, ascend an old stone staircase, and find yourself in the hushed world of Tudor City. This past Sunday, the little journey increased our excitement at finally visiting this well-known Italian restaurant.

Surprisingly, once we sat down, service was a bit sketchy. (It was the weekend, people were gone for the holidays, and someone apparently injured himself in the kitchen.) However, the sommelier placated our party with a bottle of wine! (Always a simple solution.) We had no complaints with the food or value... the special Sunday four-course prix fixe is only $42.

First, we were served two kinds of thickly-sliced Italian bread and a plate of salami, chunks of Parmesan, and citrus-spiked olives. (We ended up pleading for a couple more of these plates; we were hungry!) Then came a hearty bean soup flavored with pancetta and garlicky crostini topped with a healthy helping of salt cod mashed with potatoes. For pasta, we chose the egg tortelli oozing with rich, creamy buffalo ricotta, spaghetti in a tomato-onion-pancetta sauce and the breadcrumbed cauliflower pappardelle.

The main courses, which arrived two hours after we sat down, were worth the wait! My selection was the fried haddock with a luscious caper-mayonnaise "salmoriglio" dipping sauce. Others at the table indulged in the traditional pork meatballs. We ended with chai-spiced panna cotta,a brownielike warm chocolate cake, espresso, and that romantic walk.

L'Impero: 45 Tudor City Place, (212) 599-5045. (6/15/08 NOTE: This restaurant will be closing and reopening under a different name.)